Charlottetown

Off the ship and into Charlottetown. The weather (right now) is not very cold.  It’s not summer, let’s get real, but it is nicer than the past couple of days this early in the AM (ok…maybe not THAT early…10:30 ish).  Walking through the information center it is immediately noticeable that it’s not only bigger, but certainly more … active…than 2 days ago in Saguenay. Another very enjoyable aspect is that the dock, security and info center are right in the city. No long walks, no cab ride/shuttle…just get off and start to treat yourself.

Right outside the info center, there is a stand for local tours – one was a horse drawn wagon that was full and just pulling out as we got there.  Another was a bus that would be leaving very shortly.  Given that our booked food walking tour wasn’t going to be til 1 PM we thought this would be a great way to see some of the area.  Unfortunately they were also fully booked.  However, the last 2 people they were waiting on didn’t make it by departure time (and this guy is quite strict about his timing…gave them 3 minutes past departure).  They didn’t make it so he was more than happy for us to take their place.

Charlottetown has about 41,000 for population and maybe about 180,000 for the entire island.  That said, occasionally they get 2, 3 and even 4 (sometimes) cruise ships in port on a single day.  To say that would have an impact would be an understatement.  Both a boon and a bane for the local economy.

It also has a scarecrow festival in October which adds a bit of levity all around the city.  A glance in any direction at any given time during your wanderings is likely to reveal a scarecrow (or several) each with their own personality.

Along our route is brick building with black shutters (yeah…I missed it).  This was used to keep confiscated liquor during the time of prohibition. If you were a pirate, you would go to Nova Scotia, purchase your barrels of rum, bring them over to the island and hide them in the Charlottetown harbor. How do they hide them? Underneath each barrel they would tie a heavy salt block then drop it overboard into the ocean. By nighttime bubbles would appear on top of the water, where the rum barrels were, because the salt would have dissolved during the day. Good for the pirates, but the local authorities also caught on.

We pass by one of Holland College’s buildings, this being the Culinary Institute of Canada. Holland College is the parent comprising Holland Institute of Technology (itself comprising Business Analytics Centre (BAC), Centre for Applied Science and Technology (CAST), Centre for Community Engagement (CAC) and Glendenning Hall (Accommodations)).  Originally the plan was to call it the Samuel Holland Institute of Technology. Can you imagine the t-shirts with the initials?

Passed by a memorial to Joseph Ghiz, one of the premiers of the province. It was he that brought in the plebiscite whether or not to have a bridge or fixed link to New Brunswick. By a very narrow majority (59% in favor) it was decided to go forward.  From 1993 to 1997 the Confederation bridge was constructed making it the longest bridge of its kind (approx. 13km or 8 miles) over ice covered water. It takes approximately 15 minutes to drive across. There is a higher section in the center that looks like an arched cat’s back which allows ships to go underneath.  Interesting note (at least to me)…the company I used to work for was instrumental in parts of the construction (which was just finished the year before I joined the company).

PEI once had more traffic lights per capita than anywhere else in Canada—so they started swapping red lights for roundabouts, and Islanders learned to dance in circles instead of waiting in line. We’re going around the very first roundabout in town (affectionately known as “the bagel,”). It was built in 2006 and now there are hundreds throughout the province.  TV news ran instructional videos on proper usage and even Tim Hortons embraced the fun.  They released a limited time donut (round…what else?) with appropriate traffic decorations.  There was even a practice venue set up in a local parking lot with pylons in a circle. 

The tour is over and my mind is…full.  But the tummy, not so much.  It was thought prudent to refrain from a big breakfast this morning knowing the afternoon would likely be…substantive. 😊 

We meet Sam our guide for the next hour and half and make our way to our first restaurant, MacKinnons.  Here we’re shown a tank containing some really nice supper items…sorry…I mean Lobsters.  And there is also a Blue lobster – kinda rare as they only show up about 1 in 2 million.  Nothing weird about them…just the color.  Taste is the same.

Our first bite on this culinary journey is a Seafood chowder – shrimp, mussels, clams, fish, scallops, vegetables and nestled in a creamy soup.  And I will attest to the fact that this is one of the Very few chowders I’ve had that actually has at LEAST as much content as soup.  Excellent beginning.

Next is Dave’s Lobster.  Here we each have a half lobster roll with a side of (as OUR choice) potatoe salad.  I’ve never had a lobster roll.  I know, I know…what kind of gastronomic foodie guy am I never having such an iconic flavor sensation?  Now I am officially spoiled. The roll, laden with garlic butter, heated to have a crust that was slightly crunchy with a feather soft interior, wrapping itself around lobster that, again, equaled the container in volume…  Drop The Mic!!  I really need this more often in my life.  To be fair, the lobster itself was likely more fresh than anything we’re likely to get back home so accomplishing that goal in the same way will be difficult.  But…if you’re ever out here…do NOT pass up the chance.

Next stop is MerchantMan Raw Oyster Bar.  Another first (really a second but the first (LOONNNNGGG time ago) didn’t pan out so well).  3 raw oysters each for the crowd (6 of us).  Myself and another couple took the plunge, my dear wife and another gentleman went for baked (panko crust and done just enough to make the panko crispy) and his wife had a salad.  Not interested in raw oysters at all 😊 Once again I have been led down the path to righteousness.  These were SO much better than I thought they would be. Did 2 straight up and one with a tangy seafood sauce.  Only bit them to try the sensation, but for all intents and purposes they went down whole.  Yep…I’d do it again no problem.  As long as they’re fresh. 😉

Our last stop (thank goodness!) is Cows, opening in 1984. Readers Digest a few years back rated them as the best ice cream in Canada. They make their own, as well as making their own waffle cones in house.  I really didn’t need the Gooey Mooey sitting in a chocolate dipped waffle cone. But….

So ends our food tour and we waddle back to the ship.  Up to the room where a short nap invades the thought of preparing this post.

Down to Good Spirits for a Marguerita and a view out the window as we leave Charlottetown.  But the reality is, darkness has settled in and there really is not a lot to see.  So, back to our room and I’ll get this done. 

Tomorrow is Sydney, Cape Breton (and do NOT make the mistake of saying Sydney, Nova Scotia.  Yes, technically it is, but not what locals prefer. At all.)